Tuesday, July 5, 2011

In Seattle: The Last Post

Well yes indeed, I am in fact back in the Pacific Northwest. After leaving London yesterday morning around 950 am (thanks for the help Mosh, you know you're the best) flying to Frankfurt (horrible airport by the way) and crossing 9 time zones, I landed in Seattle at 1715 local time. The sun was shining and it was perfect weather. Oh and I was finally able to see my dog ;]

I had hoped to be writing this in London, but time did not allow and it is my belief that my mind would have been too overcome with the sadness of departure and separation. Nevertheless here I am. Back in my parents home, thinking back to Europe, missing all of my friends and wishing I could still be there.

The 4th of July was something else. I fell asleep around 2230 local time to the sound of celebration and fireworks exploding overhead and didn't wake up until just after 5 am PST. Not so bad. The best way to deal with jetlag is to try and power through it. Stay awake as long as possible and try and force your mind to adapt as quickly as possible. Surreal to be back? Certainly is. Sunday I was in London, the previous Sunday I was in Amsterdam, and the previous Sunday I was in Germany. How quickly things should change. It is difficult for me to consider life here at this time. I've no idea which way to go. The security agent who searched my bag last night asked me that very question: "So what now?" And I replied with the same answer I've been giving everyone: "I've got no idea." The options are really endless. Some people are pushing for me to go to school and finish a degree. Maybe I get a temporary job somewhere, make some money, try and sell some of my photos and go from there. But where to live? That's the big question. I've been offered a spot in a rented home in Lynnwood. I could stay with my parents until I find a place of my own. But there are pro's and con's of both options and I really don't know what I'd like to do yet. Do I try and stay put for a year? Look into enrollment back in school? Do I study business or try and proceed down the biology track again? Do I seek out work in a brewery or a pub? These are the questions I've got to answer. And what also of travel? I know it's still inside me, the need and desire to keep going, keep seeing new things. But this last trip has left me fatigued and I may not be able to return to the majority of Western Europe for quite some time. So then do I look elsewhere? Somewhere new? Some place to stretch my mind even further? Good questions I suppose, and like with everything else, I've no idea.

And now back to travel. The last word on this nearly 6 month long journey. How to sum it all up? It really is impossible I think. You can't sum up something like this in two paragraphs. But it was an experience I'm not likely to forget. I think about all the people who helped me along the way; they are countless really. As I'm sitting here I've got this feeling in my gut and I'm wondering where exactly I should be. I am back in the USA, surrounded by fellow Americans. For the past 6 months it was the other way around. Now I am no longer a stranger amongst strangers. Travel is an amazing thing. In the scheme of the journey your mind is warped. Will it bend back now that I am here? I suppose at the end, only one question remains: in which direction do I take my next step?

To everyone who followed this journey along the way, thanks so much. And to everyone who made this journey a possibility I cannot thank you enough. Thanks for tuning in. Ciao.



Zach

Monday, June 27, 2011

Checking out of Schengen

Well, today was verdict day and I had been dreading it for quite sometime. It was the day I would check out of the Schengen states, and it did not go so well. I claimed ignorance, but the Dutch authorities followed SOP and submitted my overstay to the authorities. I will either get slapped with a fine, banned for a period of time (potentially from 1 to 3 years) or incur no penalty at all. In two weeks I'll have to call the proper authorities in Holland and find out what my punishment will be. I also have some kind of insignia hand drawn inside my passport recognizable by future authorities (like in the UK) that let's them know I overstayed my visa. My hope is that the UK authorities will be lenient because I have my flight booked for just one week from today. I am also hoping they won't scrutinize things too much as I already have a visa that extends through mid-July and I know it is still valid. So I keep my fingers crossed for a smooth entry. Otherwise there is no telling what kinds of extremely bad and stressful things may transpire. Oh and I also didn't know this crossing takes 6 hours, at least they've got wi-fi onboard. Anyhow, we arrive to Harwich around 20:00 and within the hour I should know whether or not I get to proceed into England to meet Mosh near South Wimbledon. Wish me luck. Toodles.


Zach

Nothing more to say

Nothing more to say really at all. I'm leaving Amsterdam tomorrow morning. It is at best bittersweet. I'll really miss this place. I've grown to love it. I know it well. I know the streets and alleys. I know where all the Albert Heijns are. I know and love this big city that's really not all that big. It really does have the perfect mix. If only it had some mountains ;] I'll be leaving tomorrow for England, but will already be plotting my return. Thanks to all the people who made Amsterdam a possibility...most namely: Annie and Petra. And thanks to all the friends I've made along the way: Dives, Travis, and Sander (and the whole Beer Temple Crew). Good luck to everyone. I'll see you when I get back ;]



Zach

Sunday, June 26, 2011

The Rain In Amsterdam

After some beers at The Beer Temple I'm ready for walking through the canals. And I head out. And I notice the falling mist; the miniature ripples spread out across the surface of the water. The long tendrils of bright orange light reaching for something unknown down the ends of dark streets and the angled shadows of street posts in the night. I find the night folding in on itself and I want to stand still and listen to everything happening around me: the light rain falling, the distant echo of voices, the clicking of high heels on cobbles, the metallic grinding of the gears of a passing bicycle.

After a brisk walk I'm at the footbridge at the end of Herengracht and I walk across, momentarily enjoying the lights on the canal below. Eventually I'm walking up the spiral staircase to my friends flat. Even later still, I'm listening to Jack Johnson as I lay in the dark listening to rain on the roof. "All the day's rewards waiting at the doors of sleep........"

06 26 11 0234

Thursday, June 23, 2011

Well

Here in A'dam still. And I'm back with another photoless post. This past week has sucked up much of my brain's energy. It is definitely good to be back in Amsterdam. It feels good cruising through the streets and canals on Old Bill. The mental battle always raging inside is the debate between whether or not to suck it all up and keep pushing for another month. My Ma and good friend Adria have both suggested I try and stick it out and this morning after breakfast I thought I'd broken through the clouds and glimpsed the greener grass on the other side. For a moment in fact I actually did and after showering I was deciding I may just push for it and live out the remaining month here in Europe. But, my mind really is stubborn and cannot forget the previous couple of days when I'd already decided to head to London and call it quits early. This morning while trying to sleep in the dorm two drunk girls came in around 4 am and did nothing but yap their mouths off. They didn't stop yapping for 2 hours. And while getting soaked in the Amsterdam rain walking to the next hostel I decided that I really am done. I lived here in Amdam for 2 months and now I'm back and falling in and out of hostels. I have a place for the next two nights (thank god) but then Sat and Sun are still unspoken for. As it is I'll have to switch dormitories at this current hostel after tonight. And while these things really are trivial, I don't want to stay in hostels while visiting Amsterdam. It somehow suggests I am just passing through, that this is the first time I am here and I am just another traveling tourist. Dorms and hostels are for the young. For the kids traveling for the first time who don't want to see anything else other than the big cities. They want to go to Red Light District and smoke in coffeeshops. And rent bikes and go on Amsterdam Dungeon Tours. At the very least hostels scream: I am temporary! And that's the exact opposite of what I currently want.

While Ireland is some place I would love to visit. And once there I would have a place to drop my luggage for a time, I think about the next week and it's just so daunting to me. Flying to Belfast then training it down to Dublin and eventually to Cork is a complex thing. I could fly directly to Cork and avoid the craziness of two more cities, but then I'd have to find accomodation in Cork for 4 nights. And I am acquiring more luggage. And I am also not accustomed to traveling through cities in the high season. It is much more difficult to find accomodation a week ahead of time. These things plus the fact that I haven't been able to do laundry in over 2 weeks is really just something I don't want to deal with. It's something I shouldn't have to deal with. I'm at this point where I don't want to meet other travelers. I'm tired of falling in and out of people's lives. I've these brief glimpses for a couple days or a few weeks and then it's another goodbye, farewell, or see you later I don't want to have to go through. The feeling of permanence is something I long for. And even when I get to Laraugh and drop my bags with Marie and Ger it will only be a matter of time until I have to say goodbye again. I much rather head to London, stay with my good friend Mosh, and not move for awhile.

And a lot of people may think I am crazy to consider giving up the freedom that I've currently, but I really do feel that I am done. I'd like to find a job, earn money instead of always worrying about it. One thing I've forgotten, and that other people have forgotten as well is that my initial goal in coming to Europe was to find a job in Amsterdam, rent a flat, and stay put for 6 months. I never planned to see Europe in the way that I have. And I'm not saying it's a bad thing by any means. You have to go with the flow when traveling. That's the only way to really enjoy it. But I am beyond this kind of travel. I don't want small glimpses.

As everyone knows, I can always come back to Europe. I can come back to Amsterdam. I can travel to Ireland. Even though Adria made a good point about things continuing with this current experience and the memories and times I may spend in Ireland will be unique, if I travel to Ireland in 2 years or 10 years those experiences will also be unique. And so I'm quite certain at this time that the decision is final. I'm tired of being a stranger amongst strangers. I want to fly to Seattle and contemplate the future. And so that's all that's left to do. Get to London and book a flight home and then it's all done. So there we have it folks: the decision has been made to call it quits....



Zach

Monday, June 20, 2011

Traveling traveling traveling traveling travelingggggg and more traveling?

I have been doing a lot of moving around lately. Too much in fact. The last two weeks have been exhausting: I've hit Milan, Verona, Munich, Bad Oeynhausen, and now Amsterdam. I'm feeling like I need to sit still for a long while, breathe deep, and regain some of my lost vigor. Arriving here to Amsterdam I come to find my mind a bit fatigued. I remember feeling this way at the end of the 4.5 months in South America. I remember writing about the need to stop the wheels from turning; to grasp the feeling of permanance. I touched it briefly in Italy during the month I spent with the Littlehales, but then it was straight out back into the fire once I left.

The one thing that still amazes me is how things usually work out exactly how they should. There have been a few times when things don't work out, but those are rare indeed. In the last week I've formally arranged two hitchhikes that have taken me from Munich to Hannover and Hannover to Amsterdam, without a cellphone, just putting faith in the other person to stick to their word and be where they need to be at the correct time and place. And it all works out. People don't put enough faith in humanity this day in age (and for good reason mind you) but things usually work out for the best and people usually are good at heart. And this just so happens to be the perfect segway into my next thought...

I've been so fortunate throughout the past 5 months to have encountered, used, abused, befriended and then said goodbye to so many good people. And without them I would not have been able to remain here for 5 months. It's something I think about often. I only hope in time that I can give some of it back. I want to. It's something everyone should do. And it feels good to do that. To give without expecting something in return. I've been shown a great amount of kindness throughout my experiences here. I've interacted with thousands upon thousands of people and I only hope when they think back (if they remember) they think fondly of the times we shared.

I think that is one thing I've learned more about myself on this trip. The last few years I've been learning about how I fit into this world and this trip has revealed even more of this to me. I now have a good understanding of how I fit into the world and how my actions, words, and thoughts affect people. I suppose that's just one part of what I've learned on this trip. All very interesting now isn't it?

Anyhow to update the travels, I actually only snapped 5 non-beer related photos while traveling in Munich and Northern Germany. Quite sad but I didn't feel overly inspired and I was never presented with a clear opportunity to do so. Just means I'll have to go back :D There are a few other stories floating about in regard to my German experience, but I'll save that for later. I'm out for bed. See you soon.

Zach

Coat tails

Always barely skirting by, sheesh travel, you make life interesting.....



Zach

Friday, June 10, 2011

On the end of Italy and beginning of Germany...

Well, here I am, in Munich, at Ralph's flat. It all worked out as it usually does. And a mere 2 hours after first arriving in Germany, I was climbing the stairs out of the subway to meet Ralph. It always works out. I've no internet. So the inability to update things continues, but I should be able to find some kind of public library or cafe to snake an internet connection. At the very least, the Burger King at the train station has internet; I was tipped off on a google search and led to some guys travel blog, and that's where I found the handy tidbit. It really helped me out.

The small amount of Munich I've seen looks leafy and green but the weather here is grey. I was hoping for a change in weather; yesterday getting caught in the downpour and massive lightning storm was not at all fun. After things settled down, and I had formulated a backup plan if I wasn't able to get ahold of Ralph, I eased into the city and instead of running around like a chicken with its head cut off, I was able to enjoy the delights of Verona. The sun was out and things were lovely. I sat in Piazza Erbe for a long time watching the people pass for nearly 90 minutes. I watched as the final streaks of golden light faded. I walked back to the main piazza by the arena and sat down for dinner at restaurant named Liston 12. I couldn't have imagined a better place to sit. I was hoping for one final grandiose sunset but unfortunately was robbed of the final rays of sunlight as foreboding clouds in the distance began to build. Ironically enough on my last night I had a pizza and two pints of German beer; a blending of the two cultures and places I would soon be leaving and entering. And it all passes so quickly. I met an American girl (from California) at the stazione and she'd missed her train. I felt so bad for her. She was even further up the creek than I as she had no cellphone, didn't speak any Italian, and quite possibly had to wait all night for another train. Lying in my bed trying to find sleep I realized I could have done more to help her out; things always become so much more clear after it no longer matters, why is that? I didn't sleep last night until after the train had left Verona and woke up around 4 am to lots of chatter amongst the bunks above me.

I'm here drinking some coffee. I'll take a shower and head out down the street and see what I can see. From here things will be ok. I have a good feeling. Next week sometime I'll be in central Germany with Tilman, maybe we'll play golf, drink some beer, and listen to trance. I'll have to see if I can get a cheap bus ticket for up north. This past week I'm fed up with having to shell out loads of money for train tickets (one instance was my fault, the other was not).

Thinking back to two weeks ago, with the Littlehales and Umbertide, It's crazy how far we go, how many places we pass, and like we're being shot out of gun we're catapulted away so quickly. Like I wrote some time ago, the places I've spent time in are now just a pleasant memory. We move so fast time for reflections is not always possible. The small room I spent so much time in in Milan is now gone. The people I've met along the way all stored in my head.

In the wee hours of the morning I listened to the final bits of Italian I'd hear on this trip. The conversation among the other passengers in my cabin consisted of two men realizing they were both in Germany for the first time in their lives. One of them started chatting with me in Italian as I sat on the edge of my bed bleary eyed and half asleep, and for the last time I employed my minimal Italian skills. Ironic that he should look to me for help. After disembarking he waited for me and we walked down the platform together. He was looking to make a connection to another city in the north: Stuttgart. And I told him I could help him. We found the help desk for the train company and he was off. We shook hands, said ciao, and that was that. Italy had completely separated itself from me.

Here we are. Here is Germany: Munich, the heart of Bavaria. The beer mecca. Alright, time to move. We're off....

Zach

Thursday, June 9, 2011

One Photo: My Favorite

Probably my favorite shot of my time spent in Italy

"Lone Abbey and Green Mountains"

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Quick Update

Well folks I tell ya now, I'm in Milan. This is my 3rd day (more or less). It has been a difficult adjustment back into city life. I miss the quiet life in the Umbrian hills. Unfortunately the hotel I am staying at lacks a viable wi-fi connection. It's broken and they seem content letting it remain so. I am at an internet cafe (just like the old days traveling through South America). Another sidenote: Venice is no longer going to happen. Did I ever unveil my plan regarding Venice? I don't remember, but I was going to visit there for a day on my way to Munich (because I heard it might be cheaper and easier) but it was not true (not in 2011 anyway) instead I'll head to Verona for a day and then catch the nighttrain to Munich. The price was buenissimo, only 29€ for a ticket to Verona and a bed to Munchen. From Verona I leave at 2230 and arrive to Munich the following morning at 630 in the am. I'm quite excited to be visiting Germany, and the beer rich region of Munich. Soon I'll be there drinking under the shade of trees from large glass steins. So here we go. Sorry for the lack of updates. I've got some new photos and you can expect a large photo post when I get situated with Ralph. Okie dokie, that's all for now. TTFN!

Zach

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Back On the Terrace At Ospedale

I've been trying to write something (anything) for several days now and whenever I start, I get a few lines and then manage to convince myself that it sounds like rubbish and I stop writing. Sometimes inspiration can be such a fleeting thing. Like even with this entry, I feel like stopping. For some reason I am feeling ancy, not sure why. Haven't done much work today. Richard has left for Florence last night and won't be back until this evening. I cleared the piles of Rosemary prunings and restained the doors to the kitchen, did some reading and listening to music, had a shower....I've had a bit of a headache all today, and I was thinking as I listen to the sky exploding with thunder in the distance that it's most likely due to the change in atomospheric pressure. Dang storms wreaking havoc on my sinuses. Oddly enough it appears to have missed this house entirely (for the time being). There is supposed to be isolated showers and storms until midnight but all the storms seem to be sliding passed here due south.

My plans for the coming weeks remain nothing but a skeleton. I've contacted at least 8 couchsurfers with requests to crash on their couches for the 3 days I will be in Milan but none have responded. Quite odd. I am also still without a ride to Munich from Milan and I am still without an address for Ralph. So things are pretty much just in limbo X10 right now. The one thing that is concrete is my Ireland plans. I have found a family willing to host me for two weeks in July. I am quite excited about that; online I looked up the area and apparently it's where people go "to get away from it all." I have also been presented with an opportunity to photograph someone's garden and earn a bit of cash. I'm a bit worried though because the woman has said she would like 20 quality shots. Seeing as though I've never done paid work, let alone photograph a garden, AND that I was recommended by a friend, the pressure is building. We'll see how it goes. It may work out or it may not. I suppose I should just have confidence in my photographic skills and go with it.

I can't help but feel like if I were to go around to the other side of this house I'd be met with some kind of ominous looking wall of dark gray cloud ready to spew loads of rain. The air has that calm before the storm feeling and my danged sinuses are killing me. There is still sun and blue sky to the north and west however. Guess we'll see where the next few weeks take me. There's sure to be more adventure headed my way. Until next time....



Zach

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Final Days at Casa Sagraia

I've just let a fly out my window into the cool of the evening. The light above the smokey hills above Umbertide is almost gone. The breeze is lovely. I'm listening to Kings of Convenience. I've got a rather nice bump on my left hip from swinging (and then crashing into the berm) on Spike's rope swing. I suppose I tried to go just a tad too big ;]

I am living out my last few days here at Casa Sagraia, soaking it all up, enjoying myself thoroughly. Today was Wednesday; market day (my last Umbertide market day, I might add). I was introduced to a lot of people today while we took cappuccinos in the main piazza. We had lunch with them on a hillside retreat overlooking Val di Niccone and Umbertide. Some of the people I met today: one of the original founders of Dell, one of the largest buyers and distributors of beer in England (he owns 7,000 pubs), a photographer under contract with Getty and Corbin Images, and a fellow who has started two microbreweries from scratch, and that's just to name a few! Such an incredible experience I am having here. We drank delicious local wines and ate delicious food, while discussing life.

My time in Umbertide will soon draw to a close. Friday evening Richard returns and we'll head back to his place; old Ospedale in the hills above Citta di Castello. I am looking forward to being reacquainted. I'll work there for an additional week before heading north to Milano and eventually to Munich in Germany to visit my old long lost friend Ralph Mertens: we cycled and traveled together for 6 weeks in Chile, and I haven't seen him since. I am looking forward to seeing familar faces as I make my way towards the end of my trip. The two months I have until this stint in Europe is over will pass in the blink of an eye. I am already eager to travel again soon. I feel the next few years of my life will be very important in shaping where I'll go and where I'll end up. I am excited. For now, cheers to Umbertide, Italy, and especially Rosie and Patrick. I hope I earned my time at Casa Sagraia :] I hope you all have a wonderful night. Toodles!

Zach

Monday, May 23, 2011

Aftermath (It's a long one......)

I'm sitting here in my boxers, the late-evening breeze fairly floating in through the window, I haven't showered since yesterday morning; since before I knew of the kinds of things that were in store for me. Shall I recant my insane string of days? Well, let's skip ahead, post-Saturday, post the amazing meeting up with Carolyn (finally!) and our afternoon in the small hillside village of Fabro. Let's skip ahead past all of that and let's start yesterday (Sunday) morning...

I was heading down in the taxi from Fabro to the train station in the valley below. I had decided to skip a day of sightseeing for a long day riding on the train (I thought it might be relaxing to spend a day sitting and reading) and I was to board a train bound for Terontola at 1239. Upon arrival to the station the taxi driver informed me there was a railroad strike currently taking place. "Lovely," I thought, "thanks for telling me ahead of time." I bought my ticket, and sat down at the station to wait the 20 minutes until departure time. Well let's see, 2 hours later I'm still waiting. The first train had been cancelled. But do not fear, there is one more at 230. So as 230 nears I am still waiting until I hear another cancellation announcement. So by now I am getting a bit ancy (because it's Sunday and things are not open and do not run with normal frequency). I am worried because I am without a cellphone and without Rosie or Patrick's phone number to call them in case something like this should happen. I would need the internet to track it down. Well eff me for not being prepared for something like this, but how was I to know there would be a strike? Either way, be prepared for everything. Had I been prepared I could have avoided the horrible day I would experience in its entirety.

And so off into the village of Fabro Scalo I went. Stopping in two cafe's to see if there was internet access. Nothing. They referred me to another cafe but it was closed on Sundays. So I proceeded to walk through the streets and seek out an unsecured internet connection. No dice. 20 minutes later I return to one of the cafe's and see if someone can help me. By this time I am an expert on explaining my predicament in Italian (I'd say my Italian speaking skills on this trip went from a 1 to a 3, with 10 being fluent. This is a drastic improvement). Same bar, a girl who speaks english, but doesn't live in the village. Help not possible. Ok moving on. Back to the station to sit and wait for the train. Finally some other people were waiting alongside me (all day I was alone at the station. Is there some magical way of knowing this would be the only running train?). I get on the train (it's late by 10 minutes) and arrive to Terontola after 5 pm. This is where the situation grows desperate.

I was due to meet Patrick in Umbertide at 611 (no way that could happen now) and If I could just find internet access somewhere I'd be fine. So I'm walking through Terontola, first cafe nothing, and the second cafe was promising. A woman speaks a little english (I end up explaining myself in Italian) and they agree to try and call some people to find the number. After 30 minutes of trying there is nothing. By now it's nearly 540 and I knew Patrick would be leaving soon. I grab some pizza from the cafe and head down the road towards a hotel they had directed me to. On the way I stop in at another cafe and no help there either. Onto the hotel and apparently the internet is broken (yeah bullshit) so I'm passing the point of desperation, I don't remember what time it was, but it was rather warm and I decide to try a last ditch effort. I had remembered seeing a sign for an Agriturismo, so I decide to try my luck there. I envision me walking up to a woman retrieving laundry and her husband returning from working in the fields and they are totally understanding of my situation and willing to help. Yeah, well, this was the daydream running through my head as I walked along the road in Val di Chiana. It was nearly impossible not to consider my situation and find some enjoyment out of it, after all this is Val di Chiana, and I am in Tuscany, but the situation was still dour no matter how I sliced it. Finally after reaching the Agriturismo and walking down the drive, I find a tall gate locked. Two dogs are barking their heads off, and despite my yelling, "hello!?" several times and there being 2 parked cars, no one ever came out. So back to Terontola I went; walking along country roads between fields of barley as the sun fell towards the horizon.

By now my demeanor had changed. What more could I do? I had tried every cafe, asked countless people for help; I had reached a fuck-all mindset. My thoughts changed from finding internet access to finding a place to sleep for the night. The possibility of having to sleep outside crossed my mind several times. I decided to try and get a taxi to drive me to Camucia (the next town towards Cortona) and maybe there I could find a cheap hotel with internet access. I returned to one of the previous cafe's to ask if they might be able to call me a taxi. The fool behind the counter said there were no taxi's. Yeah, right. So I went back to the helpful cafe, and asked there and they were willing to help me. How is it that these people were the only people all day willing to really make an effort to help me out? I still wonder. After a bit of searching, they find me a taxi. I wish I could have thanked them properly, but here my lack of Italian skills failed me.

The taxi pulled up and I got in. For the first time all day I felt relief. Finally I was going somewhere and getting somewhere and I enjoyed the taxi ride through more winding country roads. I told him I needed a non-expensive hotel and he knew of one, not in Camucia, but in Cortona (I was expecting to pay at least 70 euros). We got out at a nondescript building with an intercom and electric gate and I was thinking, "God, what is this a 4-star hotel?" We get to the door, and the driver asks how much, the woman smiles and says 40 euros for one night. Shocked, I pay the driver 15 euros, thank him and follow the woman to reception. After awhile I begin to understand that it looks to be some kind of Church owned and operated hotel. I didn't know what 40 euros would get me, but the woman was nice and my Italian was still improving. Somehow I remembered phrases and sayings I had not heard or used since I took Italian in school in 2007; something must have shaken them loose at some point during the day. Finally I would have internet access and a way to call Rosemary and Patrick. I get upstairs to my room and it's quite nice; two beds, and a private bathroom and shower. It was a really great value for 40 euros. So I get downstairs and finally place a call to Rosemary, by now I think it was after 8, I don't remember. She didn't sound pleased at all. I tried to explain the situation with the strike and no phone or number to call; understandably they were a bit frustrated. I guess Patrick had waited all evening. I felt horrible. Disappointed with my own lack of success in finding a way to make things work out. I spent a bit of time looking at my return options for the following morning. I would either take a bus to Mercatale or train it to Magione or Umbertide (surely the strike would be over). I would call them back in the morning to discuss further options. I said goodnight to the woman at reception and went upstairs. I fell asleep around 11.

The morning came quickly and I was out of bed at 745 (without an alarm, I might add. Great eh?) and downstairs just before 8 am. I was able to call and got a hold of Patrick. We agreed to meet in Magione at 10 am. This was actually the least attractive of my options as it was already 830 and the train left at 935 and I would need to take a bus down to the station at Camucia. So I ran upstairs, didn't have time for a shower, brushed my teeth, grabbed my stuff, and headed back downstairs. The woman helped me figure out bus times and I was outside at 845. I guess I missed the first bus, and when 9 am passed without the sight of a bus I started to get nervous. If I missed the train I'd be screwed and I'd feel even more lame if I wasn't in Magione at 10 am. Finally the bus comes by at 911. Shit, I'm thinking. I get on and ask the bus driver how long to the station, he says 10 minutes. I feel like maybe I will be ok. We pull in at 925, I get out and buy a ticket. I'm there on the platform as the train pulls into the station. Over the intercom I listen to all the stops the train will be making and Magione is one of them (for some reason, despite my experience traveling by train, I always question whether or not I am actually on the correct one). But I definitely am! And as the train rolls out just after 935 for some reason I am feeling angry at the situation. Frustrated by what had happened the previous day, but feeling a little relief because soon I'll be in Magione. The first stop from Camucia is Terontola. We pull in and some people get off, I remain seated. And then, reminscent of a different train ride in Spain, the power to the train is cut and everyone is getting off. Disembarking from the train we all realize what is happening. We are caught in the middle of yet another strike. On the platform a woman is chastising one of the employees for striking and not working. There is a quick and loud exchange of strong words before the entire crowd of passengers are heading off for the terminal. All the foreigners become apparent in a situation like this and I find an English woman willing to let me borrow her cell phone. Luckily I am able to call Patrick (at this point its 955) and tell them I am caught in the middle of a strike. They tell me they'll be at Terontola in about an hour. That's fine by me. I grab a coffee and chocolate brioche and sit down to watch the unfolding scene. The next train wouldn't be for 2 hours and there was no guarantee it would be leaving. There were rumors of a bus arriving at 130 to take the other passengers where they needed to go. I was glad I had a ride coming. The railway lines closing down really is a messy thing. Finally I see Rosemary and Patrick, and I am finally whisked away from it all.

On our way back we head through villages like Pergo (I really thought it was a nice place) and then up through the mountains (I thought I'd love to climb with my bike) with views looking down towards Val di Chiana and finally we arrive down to Mercatale. After stopping for lunch supplies, we wind through Val di Niccone and up the hill to Preggio and finally to their home: Casa Sagraia. And so my adventure was over, finally. I was so relieved to be back and still can't thank Patrick and Rosemary enough for chasing me around Umbria and Tuscany. Now I'm here in my room, it's 10 pm. And I'm tired. Tomorrow will be another good day. Looking back it doesn't seem such a big deal. It really is not. I can't believe it's almost the end of May. I have also received a response from my friend Ralph who lives in Munich. My plan is to visit him the 1st or 2nd week of June. I'll try and stay there for a week before making an attempt to return to Amsterdam. That's my plan. We'll see where I end up. Toodles.



Zach

"Overlooking Tiber Valley from Fabro"

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Orto (Garden) Path #1


"The Path"

Not bad eh?

the world outside

I've escaped upstairs to my room as the day is ending and as the music from Horse In the Sea plays, the hustle and bustle of the outside world seems a million miles away. I stood outside earlier tonight in my socks on the side terrace, the red tiles still warm from the day's sun, and watched the procession of colors and light commandeer the sky. Yellow streaks of light, traces of blue and warm peach hues gracing the edges of cloud; this was the sunset. Thunder rumbled and a flash of lightning lit the sky over the hill down to Lago Trasimeno; somewhere it was raining...

It really is nice to take the time to enjoy the small things in life. More than anything else that has been my goal on this trip. It's always a difficult thing; to savour the small precious moments in life. People are always in such a hurry or don't have the time or the ability, when in actuality, beauty can be found anywhere at any given moment. I worked in the orto again today. I've been given the task of creating a secondary, much smaller and narrower stone path for the lower terrace. I have been shying away from it; after completing the upper path, I didn't want to have to create another and well, here we are. I spent 2 hours this morning struggling, thinking, and expending copious amounts of brain power trying to fit the puzzle pieces of this smaller path together to no avail. I gave up quite frustrated and went for the normal coffee break with Patrick. And as usual, with so many other things in life all you need is a step back and refocus of your thoughts to think clearly. Frustration can cloud the mind and when I returned after coffee it all fell into place and an hour later I'd found a home for all three wheelbarrow loads of stone I'd taken down there. It was quite a nice feeling, especially since I was dreading it for so long.

I made an attempt to get rid of my farmers tan today (don't worry raccoon eyes are still there). I wore a tanktop and worked under the sun and in the heat (there is little wind in the orto) and despite putting on SPF 30 sunscreen (I may have missed a few spots) my shoulder blades are quite red. I'll wear a real shirt tomorrow ;] Anyhow after working the stone path, I pulled the last bit of the weeds and got to work strimming the rest of the areas. I love it actually. It feels good to clear a hillside or embankment. It really does look nice. I really am proud of the work I am doing here. I hope it shows and that Patrick and Ro are happy with the effort I have put out for them. I've just photographed downstairs for them. Ro wants to put some photos of their house on the website she is working on. I'm quite happy to make a contribution. In any case, we'll see how the weather goes for the next few days. Supposed to rain at some point in the near future. I might go to Citta della Pieve on Saturday and do a little brewery tour of the birrificio there. They have a beer containing basil, and also one that contains truffles so I'm quite curious to see how that would be. We'll see how it goes. I've been photographing lots. I'm happy. Until next time...

Zach

Friday, May 13, 2011

Cortona Photopost

"Winding Street In the Midday Sun"

"Cortona from Above"

"Watercolor Sunset"

"Cortona Streets By Night"

"Tracks For Miles At Camucia"

Sunday, May 8, 2011

"Snowfall" & Removal of the Caterpillars

Today was spent relaxing mostly. The last 3 days have been incredible, and just when I think it can't get any better, it does. Perfect temps, a nice breeze, and no clouds in the sky at all! I hope it stays like this for tomorrow. I'm quite tired, but wanted to write about my adventures.

Midday I was notified by Patrick that he'd discovered a caterpillar nest down on the edge of the property. I can't remember what they call them here in Italy (some kind of processionary caterpillar), but apparently they are extremely dangerous and can cause major respiratory complications if you breathe in the toxic poison injecting hairs they release when threatened. So it was our job to dispatch of them. We headed down to the location to survey the scene. Luckily they were in a low bush (quite odd for the species actually) and we'd decided to try and set a fire to burn them. The plan was hatched to dump fuel on the nest and toss in a match. We took some petrol down with us as well as a bit of Wasp and Bee Spray. The whole Littlehales family was down there ready to stamp out the fire should it start showing signs of getting out of control. I was attempting to record a video of the entire thing but my camera crapped out due to low memory only 30 seconds after I set it up to :[ In any case, we moved in, Patrick hit them with a dose of petrol and I hit them with the Wasp Spray. They didn't seem to like it much but when they began jumping ship, Patrick tossed in the match. I didn't see the initial explosion of combusting petrol, but I heard it and looked to see a large plume of orange flames and brown smoke rising into the sky. It was quite exciting, and quite spectacular.

Needless to say, the caterpillars were toast (literally). The threat had been neutralized completely. Unfortunate that we had to kill them, but they are quite dangerous. I'm still bummed I wasn't able to capture the whole thing with my camera. Oh well. The rest of the afternoon was relaxing. And later we went down to Lago Trasimeno (my first time ever) for a stroll and a pizza. It was a great evening. Tomorrow I will be heading off to Perugia for the day, and I may have also found a local tour guide to show me around. She speaks mostly Italian, so it could be quite an interesting day. I will be forced to use my Italian so I'm kind of excited :] In any case, it should be a lot of fun. Until next time, ciao!

Zach

"Snowfall"

Friday, May 6, 2011

Glad It's Friday :]

I've got the rare extreme desire to write this evening. Actually I think it has been there all day, but now I have a bit of downtime as I am sitting in my room at 10 after 9. The evening is cool and the crickets are playing their nighttime tune. Today I spent the morning working on my new stone path. The stones have been laid completely and I now will need to go back through and make sure they are all set at an even height (I'm just about a third of the way through).

It was quite hot today, I reckon one of the warmest days since I've arrived in Europe. It was nice. The sun beat down and I had to wear a bit of sunscreen; my arms and nose are a rosy hued pink. I stopped momentarily, as I was nearing the end of the stone laying, to watch as a lone ant attempted to carry the remains of a deceased spider across my stone path. He toiled under the hot sun as I toiled under the hot sun. I watched him for at least 15 minutes. The weight was so much that he was kicking up bits of dirt as he struggled to pull it along the way. Eventually a friend came to help him out and they eventually got to the other side of the path, where the loose dirt proved quite difficult for the duo. A third ant came to help out and they finally reached the top of the slope and carried it off to an undisclosed location; sure to be hailed as heroes in the colony. It's amazing what you will notice if you take the time to notice the small things around you. Later, I watched a solitary ant carting off the body of a full-grown Wasp.

Spike (the 9 year old song of my hosts) had his birthday party today and 7 kids in all from the nearby village of Preggio descended upon Sagraia and had a lovely (albeit hot) afternoon playing games and eating delicious food. Afterwards, spent from the effort of managing 7 overexcited children, Rosemary, Patrick and I took wine and chatted on the back terrace. This has come to be one of my favorite times of the day: when work is over and you can finally take the time to really enjoy the surroundings. As summer nears the evenings become prolonged and sometimes I wish I could live here in this time of the day for longer than reality allows. I like to stand on the end of the promonotory and gaze out onto the valley. The colors are all tinged gold and the little houses (quite a variation in size) look so lovely contrasting with the rising and falling of the sprawling vibrant green hills. I spotted a modest home down the way with a small vineyard and three or so small trees near the home. I try and imagine what it would be like to sit down there and have a drink. I noticed also the Pheasants making their calls, and all throughout the valley (If you listen close) you can hear them shouting to one another continuously.

It was defintely a slow paced day; one I enjoyed very much. We should all take the time to look at and enjoy the small things happening around us. The world is most certainly alive and most people never realize the amazing things happening right beneath their feet. Tomorrow is a non-work day. Most likely I'll be off somewhere sightseeing as a tourist, enjoying Italy...until next time...I hope you're all well...


Zach

"The View From the Promonotory"

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Today

I'm feeling a bit dusty as I sit in bed writing this entry. Outside, the final vestiges of light are fading; the trees and mountains becoming silhouettes, a light wind is blowing. I worked hard most of today and it was truly stunning (unfortunately no photos at all) and it never reached the 20 degree mark like the weatherman promised.

I started with a bit of weeding, and then more soil prep and after having a bit of lunch I proceeded back outside to start on the latest project: constructing a path down the center of the garden using small chunks of sandstone. It's quite fun actually. Initially, it was a bit daunting (kind of like starting a jigsaw puzzle) but once I got started and began lining up the stones properly, I rather enjoyed it. Spent 3 hours or so working it and got 2/3 the way done. Tomorrow I'll finish placing the stones and then get to work on making the entire thing level (I'm determined to achieve perfection). I feel like I'm constructing some sort of Roman road or something (there will definitely be photos when I finish, so stay tuned).

I've got some ideas for some new photo techniques I'd like to try, so I'm just waiting for a clear night to test those out. I have also discovered a brewery located somewhere in Umbria that makes two kinds of beer I have never heard of before: one that utilizes Basil and another that utilizes Truffles (the black or white variety traditionally found using pigs, not the chocolate version, sorry) but they sound quite interesting so I'll have to find a place selling them and get my hands on a couple of bottles. I'm pretty tired, and know I'll sleep well tonight. In any case, we'll see how this weekend goes. It's up in the air right now. Until next time, hope you're all well, ciao...


Zach

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Old Church

Today saw me visiting the old city of Umbertide (it is market day on Wednesday). So down the road I went with Rosemary and Patrick; 18km of winding curves and breathtaking vistas down into the city (I am making plans to try and ride a bike up from the city one day). Once in the city I was given the chance to roam on my own for an entire hour (and I certainly made good use of it). I covered a lot of ground. Snapped a lot of photos and saw a major portion of the old city. Photographs will follow. We spent the morning shopping for food and walking around the city before returning home in the early afternoon. By the time we were halfway up the hill it was raining quite hard; I would actually classify officially as a downpour, and we scampered inside with the bags of groceries to escape the rain. In 40 minutes the rain would stop completely and the sun would come out. After a quick glance at the weather I realized there would be no more rain coming our way.

I was given the day off (so to speak) and invited to go outside and do some exploring. At the suggestion of Rosemary I decided I would head up to the old church I had said I'd like to explore and have a look around. After Patrick loaned me both of his lenses (one a telephoto (good for zooming) and the other an extremely wide-angle (good for shooting buildings)) he told me he was up there just a few days ago and that I'd need to give the door a good shove to get inside. So up the road I went under a slight breeze and sunny skies. There are no shoulders on the sides of Italian roads (at least not the country roads) so it's a bit precarious sometimes, but I made it down the way without a hitch. Once there I shoved my way inside and was presented with a rather empty, broken and shattered main entrance. Apparently the church was built in 1956 and was abandoned due to damage sustained during an earthquake. I don't know when this earthquake occured, but by the looks of the things I'd say it has been abandoned for quite some time. Ceiling tiles have fallen away, there are holes in the floors and the spot where the altar should be is completely collapsed and you can see through to the basement. I spent about 20 minutes or so walking around the collapsed shamble of a church. Outside the plants and trees are making attempts to reclaim what was once theirs. No idea if there are plans to demolish and rebuild something else or possibly to renovate (I imagine renovation would be quite costly). In any case I did a bit of exploration around the grounds, snapped some photos using both the wide-angle and telephoto lenses and had an enjoyable time as the rain had gone and the temperature had risen. So there you have it. That's that. That's my day and the old church.

Tomorrow is Thursday and I'll be expected to do plenty of work. It is predicted to be sunny and near 21 degrees (70 in fahrenheit) so it should be good. This weekend I'll either be sightseeing with Caro or exploring elsewhere solo (maybe I'll try and find a nice city in the region with a decent beer scene ;] ). Oh and also! Next week! Wednesday the 11th, I will be heading down to Orvieto to watch the finish of the 5th Stage of the Giro d'Italia (Piombino to Orvieto). If you are unfamiliar with the race, then google it! It is the last major race before Le Tour de France. I am so excited and happy I brought my cycling jerseys! I'll be wearing mine hanging out near the finish line cheering on all the riders (I hope one of the riders from Garmin wins since my jersey is a Garmin Slipstream (now Garmin Transitions)). Ok so yeah, that's it. That's all, I swear. Ttfn.

Zach

"The Jersey"

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Quick Update

So where to start? I've neglected my blog somewhat, and have put off writing a new entry for far too long. It was due in part to not being able to find time and not really feeling up to it. Last week was spent in an old and large Umbrian home nestled between Citta di Castello and Monte Santa Maria Tiberina. I attended several dinner parties, drank lots of amazing locally produced wines, and ate lots of amazing foods. I've been here just over a week yet I feel I've been exposed to so many good, interesting, and new things.

I am now at another home about 20 km south of Citta di Castello, in the hills above the city of Umbertide. I am staying with an English couple (friends of my first host). They have a 9 year old son, and 2 curious felines. I've been here for 2 days and I've mostly been doing work down in the garden; weeding, preparing soil, and gathering firewood (I used a chainsaw for the first time yesterday). Today saw me visiting the small nearby village of Preggio (my first ever visit to a village of that kind). It was quite amazing. I imagine only a hundred or so (maybe less) year round residents. The small school has only 6 children in attendance. I'd love to visit there in the evening as I'm quite certain it will make for lovely nighttime photography. The photo I posted yesterday is of the view from my window. I've got an amazingly large bedroom, bathroom, and an amazing view every morning. I'll post another photo of the actual house and I will tell you right now, it is incredible. It's seemingly perched right on the edge of infinity. Not sure what I'll be up to this evening, but I'd like to drink a beer and maybe do some reading or more writing. Tomorrow I'll be doing a bit more weeding and preparing of soil and strimming perhaps. I'm not sure. There is an old church just up the way from here, I'd like to go have a look around. It's abandoned, and apparently quite dangerous because of sustained earthquake damage. Might make for some good photos.

In any case I'm looking forward to getting out of here this weekend for a little excursion somewhere in the region (hopefully with Caro). We'll see how it goes. That's all for now unfortunately, I'll post the photo of the house and the view. For now I'll go relax. Ci vediamo! Ciao!

Zach

"The View"

Friday, April 29, 2011

One Photo


The Old House, Ospedale, basking in the light of another famous Citta di Castello sunset

Thursday, April 28, 2011

It would seem...

That there is never ever (nor will there ever) be enough time in one day to do and accomplish all that needs to be done. Or perhaps I simply need to portion my time more efficiently. Today saw me working the yard solo. Intermittent sun showers and blockages by large masses of sinister looking gray clouds; I saw and felt the rain momentarily, but it really was just momentarily. I worked beneath the olive trees again today. My job is to clear weeds, break up the soil, and integrate manure pellets into the soil. My goal is 4 trees a day, takes about 20 mins per tree and I think there are 30 trees? That's what Richard tells me. I also cleaned up some rusted table frames, and moved all the chairs back down to the ground floor from the 1st floor.

I'm terribly sorry for the lack of updates. I've been meaning to write about my experiences over this first week, but time is always short. I haven't gotten out to do much exploring of the area, but tomorrow we are going into the old part of Citta di Castello to the market. And this weekend, when I won't have to work in the yard, I want to go and explore nearby Monte Santa Maria Tiberina. I'll be sure and take lots of photos tomorrow and this weekend. In any case, that's the whole of the update for now. Sorry It's a bit short...ttfn!

Zach




"Another Day On the Terrace"

Sunday, April 24, 2011

First Day In Italy

I am sitting in my bedroom here after my first full day in Italy. After a hair raising day yesterday spent riding buses, planes, and trains for nearly 14 hours, I arrived by car around 2 am, up a winding road to the house that will be my home for the next month or so. This morning I was woken up around 930 by a minor earthquake (a bit crazy) and then a little bit later at 11 am to the sound of church bells in the distance. Like a child on christmas morning I jumped out of bed, opened the windows and the shutter, to an amazing view overlooking tree covered hills and a castle perched on a sun drenched mountain. Sounds idyllic, but this is Italy after all ;] I opened the other window overlooking the large patio and garden and the sounds of chirping birds and buzzing bees quickly filled my room. This was to set the tone for the rest of the day. I showered and headed downstairs to have a quick breakfast and have a chat with Richard (my host). We had a lunch date with his neighbor and good friend, Andrea at 130. That quickly came and five minutes after 1 saw us driving down the dirt road to her house.

We came bearing gifts; a bottle of wine, and a freshly dug up sage plant. Andrea's home is straight out of some sort of travel magazine, or storybook. It has purple and white Wisteria growing up the side of the small brick home, and the roof looks ancient and is composed of various colored Terracotta tiles. She had also transformed an old barn into an art studio (she's a painter, and a very good one at that. You will definitely meet her Caro :] ). I imagine her view is quite inspiring.

Upon entering the home I realize how cozy and warm it feels. A nice fireplace. The small living area smelled of smoke. The exposed wooden beams and stone ceiling is quite amazing. We took a walk around the grounds and I was told that the fig tree in the front yard may have been planted when the home was first built 300 or 400 years ago. We were offered Prosecco and crostini's with Guanciale (so delicious). The rest of the guests arrived: a former Belgian Diplomat and his wife. They looked distinguished. The gentleman with a dark green corderoy suit, and a knitted crimson colored tie. A tuft of thinned gray hair sat atop his head and he wore a large pair of glasses. After Prosecco and Guanciale we moved to the dining room where we were served blanched asparagus with balsamic and olive oil. We had lots of great local Umbrian wine. The conversation flowed, as did the wine. Just listening to all of these people talk and conversate was amazing. They had lived such amazing lives. The former Belgian diplomat (Thierry) had been posted in various locations throughout his career. Locations included: Cambodia, London, Poland, and Moscow (please note this was in the 70's and 80's) and provided a front row seat for the collapse of the Soviet Union. The conversation was extremely stimulating. The next course was potato salad with fresh parsley, capers, and rosemary, carrots with fresh cumin, and a Pork Roast with fennel and other various spices. All was incredibly delicious. We had more wine and after I was quite full, the dessert made it's appearance (I'll have to remember to pace myself next time). It was an incredible chocolate mousse (made with Belgian chocolate of course) with chunks of quickly dissipating meringue. I had two servings. We had some Grappa, then some almond cookies, some chocolate, and then small cups of extremely rich and dark coffee. The food kept coming, but finally after a little bit more wine it was over and all that was left was the never uninteresting conversation. We made a trip up the hill to see Andrea's studio. We viewed palettes crusted over with paints, vases full of brushes, various sized canvases adorning the small area; different works, portraits, landscapes. It was amazing (she will have an exhibition in Paris soon). Afterwards another stroll around the grounds to look at the various plants and flowers; some Lilacs perhaps? This would be the kind of place I would like to live (perhaps someday ;] ) After saying goodbye to Thierry and his wife we helped to fix Andrea's clock, had a bit more Prosecco, and headed back up the road to Richard's house. What a time of day it was.

Finally we strolled the grounds here at his home, and discussed his plans for it. I am eager to roll up my sleeves and get to work. It should be great and there is definitely a lot to do. Tomorrow we'll host a dinner with lots of his close friends, hopefully do a bit of work in the morning, and enjoy another amazing selection of freshly prepared local food. Not sure what time I will go to bed. We'll see. I think I'm really going to like it here. I'll post a photo a bit later on of the view I have out my window. Until, then, toodles! Ciao!

Zach

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Alkmaar and Surrounding Areas

So yesterday I went out exploring. My plan was to visit some tulip fields (it has been a goal of mine for the past few years) and I finally succeeded. Because I really wanted to photograph a field of tulips with a windmill, I did a bit of research beforehand and found about 3 places where this was possible. As it turns out one of them was not far from Alkmaar, and as that turns out, Alkmaar was only 35 minutes away by train. So the perfect plan was materializing: I would bring my bike and ride out to the tulip fields from Alkmaar (it was only about 11km). It was my first time traveling by train with my bike and it went off without a hitch.

Once in Alkmaar I picked up a map of the city and surrounding bike routes (there are hundreds upon hundred of bike routes all over Holland) and headed off in no particular direction. It took me a little while, but I finally got my bearings and was headed off towards Stompetoren and Schemerhorn in no time. Once outside the city, the scenery changes quite a bit (don't get me wrong, Alkmaar is a lovely city itself) and you quickly find yourself cycling in the shade of tall tree-lined side roads. Right off the bat you can see the colorful mosaic of tulip fields in the distance. The road out to Schemerhorn is dotted with a ton of molen (windmills). I'm quite certain I encountered at least 20 of them throughout my day-long excursion. The first one got me pretty excited and I had to stop and snap some photos. As I continued on I went where ever I wanted. If I saw tulip fields in the distance, then I would go there and check it out. I paused momentarily at the base of a windmill to each lunch. That was the first time I'd seen 3 windmills all clumped together (but it wouldn't be the last). I checked the map and there was a tulip icon just past Schemerhorn so I headed out that way and in no time I could see the colors ahead. It really is a bit odd; people don't seem to mind the taking of photos. I thought maybe I'd get yelled at for walking on the land, and in one instance I asked the farmer himself, and he seemed quite non-chalant about it, like he just expects it (I'm sure it happens with frequency). So that was nice. I didn't feel bad about walking out into a field to snap photos. Some fields are behind homes and those I didn't try to get into, but the ones right off the road are fair game. In some cases irrigation ditches prevented me from getting up close, but still made for some nice photos. The sun was out all day long and it was nice just riding along the quiet tree-lined roads taking photos at my own discretion. This is what I did for most of the day from 130 onward to 7 pm or so.


Around 3 pm, I took a look at my map and realized there was a small town marked on one of the routes. It was apparently a good place for lunch. So I headed out to Westbeemster and found the restaurant with ease. This town had 150 residents in 2007, and by the look of things, it hadn't done much growing. It definitely felt like a small town. I parked my bike out front (without locking it) and proceeded inside. I startled the bartender, he was singing karaoke (on the newly installed sound system I later found out). I guess they weren't open yet, but he offered me a seat and I sat down and had a couple half-pints of Amstel on the terrace. Now maybe I put too much faith in people already, but it's places like these that totally and completely restore my faith in humanity. I am always reminded of Louis Armstrong's - What A Wonderful World, I used to think that kind of life no longer existed anywhere, but I'll tell you, it actually does. Everyone in this small blip of a town waved, said hello, and knew each other on a first name basis. It was quite amazing actually. The english spoken was broken at best (and that's a real sign you're getting far away from the city). I paid the 4€ for the 2 half pints, thanked the bartender, and was on my way back towards Schemerhorn. The rest of the afternoon I spent cruising the country roads looking for tulips and windmills. By the time I was headed back towards Alkmaar the afternoon sun was diminishing and it was transitioning to the evening. It would be excellent for photos and was only getting better and better by the minute. I took an alternate route back to Alkmaar that would take me by 6 or so molen. Near Ursem there were 2 molen together, 1 sitting solo, and near Rustenburg I encountered the next clump of 3. My plan was to head to Alkmaar and have dinner before heading to the train station. I really could not have planned it out better.

It was primetime for relaxing by the canal as I entered the city. The streets were nearly deserted compared to when I cruised through earlier. I found a nice little restaurant and took a seat on the terrace. Het Gulden Vlies (The Golden Cup) and it had a lovely photo of the city taken in 1902; the restaurant sitting in the exact same place. I ordered a Duvel, a goat cheese salad, and a side of fries. Was amazing. I love Duvel :] Anyhow, after dinner I headed back to the train station. It was nearing 8 pm and I lucked out as the train for Sloterdijk was leaving in just 12 minutes. So needless to say it was a great day. I snapped close to 500 photos (which I will upload to this blog a bit later on). Hope you enjoy reading. Until next time, tot zo!

Zach

Have a look at these curious buggers ;]

Saturday, April 16, 2011

It has been confirmed...

It has in fact been confirmed. I just bought my plane ticket to Rome. From Amsterdam I am proceeding deeper into the confines of the European continent and will be traveling to Italy in just 7 days. Incredible really. It hasn't sunk in. Such a long-time dream to visit the country of Italy and now here it is, staring me down. In 7 days it is entirely possible that I will be sitting in the Umbrian hills as the night fades drinking a glass of wine on a nice little terrace. Here we go. Cheers. Let's dive right in.

Zach


photo by: Ricardo Silva

Friday, April 15, 2011

The Inside Scoop

So here we are now. This is the inside scoop. The freshest of the fresh news from my trip. Anyhow so here we go....

So my original plan as some of you may already know, was to stay here in Holland until the 30th of April. For two reasons really. One, Queens Day is on the 30th of April and Queens Day for those of you unfamiliar with it, is a citywide celebration of the Queen. The entire country gets decked out in their finest orange and parties in the streets and canals in boats and with lots of alcohol. Sounds pretty schweet to me. And the second reason: so I could photograph the tulips. Now that's two good reasons to stay put. But on the other hand, I recently gained full access (via purchase of a premier account) to Helpx.net. And with that access as well as a little help from Carolyn (photos and stories) I am now certain I will not remain here in Holland until the 30th. But what is Helpx.net? The answer, and as quoted directly from the site:

"HelpX is an online listing of host organic farms, non-organic farms, farmstays, homestays, ranches, lodges, B&Bs, backpackers hostels and even sailing boats who invite volunteer helpers to stay with them short-term in exchange for food and accommodation."

So there you have it. You pay $29 USD and you have 2 full years of access to the site. And what's more is that there are literally people all over the world. All over europe, the US, Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Africa. Take your pick. Create a profile. Contact some hosts. And get your ass to wherever you want to go. It really is that simple. Once there it is not just a kick back relax kind of holiday. You will be expected to work (similar hours in some cases to a full-time job). 5 or 6 days a week 4 to 6 hours a day. In exchange for your hard work you will be rewarded with lodging and food. Sounds pretty nifty. If you aren't paying for food or lodging think of the money you can save. In some cases the arrangements are quite temporary usually around 2 weeks is the minimum and I've seen up to a month or sometimes longer depending on the circumstances. It not only provides you with a truly unique experience and perspective on life in the particular region but it also provides you with a nice little work holiday. Work hard, sweat, get a little dirty, then kick back relax, have some good food and enjoy the serenity around you while learning about the culture from your hosts. Nothing better in my opinion. So the obvious next question is, where have I been looking? The answer: Italy.

Two major reasons for me looking into Italy. One: I know a bit of the language already. And two: I've always dreamed of travel to Italy (especially Tuscany). And so I am going to make it happen. I am going to Italy. Can I say it one more time? Do you mind? I'm going to Italy. Ok thanks. Moving along. I have been in contact with several hosts. Two of the most promising are based in Umbria (the region about an hour or so north by train from la Citta Eterna, Roma). Holy hell how amazing is that? One host family I've been talking to owns animals; cows, goats, chickens, ducks etc etc. They make preserves, cheese and own an olive orchard as well. The other host is an Englishman. He owns a home in Umbria and has been fixing it up over the past 15 years or so. He frequently travels between London and Umbria for business (he designs furniture) and is looking for someone to maintain the area (weeding, gardening, painting, etc etc). So bloody hell, which do I choose? That's the question. I've got an idea of which one I think. Both will most likely be longer term rather than shorter term and that's exactly what I am looking for. Longer term work. And I've even been guaranteed the possibility of a longer term arrangement should things work out well. So look at that. How incredibly amazing do either of those things sound? Yeah freaking awesome.

So when will I make my arrival to the lovely country of Italia? Well today is the 15th of April. I may be sitting in Umbria, drinking wine, walking down cobbled medieval streets beneath terracotta roofs and hills packed with tiny Italian cottages as early as Sunday the 24th of April. Quite soon. Means I'll fly out from Holland on the 23rd of April. So we'll see. I'm waiting for a phone call from Richard (the Englishman) in about 10 mins here and we'll have a chat and discuss things further. So here we go. Here is the next chapter. The Italian chapter. And who knows where I'll end up. More later. Hope you're all well. Talk soon.

Zach

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Return to Nijmegen, Den Bosch & ASOT 500 (Armin and Friends).....

First off a big thank you to Robyn Guille he is known as "the canuck" in this post for letting me borrow his photos. Nice to add some visuals to all the descriptions I wrote in the entry. Thanks man! Good times in ASOT 500 :] and now the previously written entry...

Well, It has been exactly 12 hours since I sat down here after returning from the crazy 24 hour trip to Den Bosch for the ASOT 500th Episode Party yesterday. Was really a crazy day and night. In the end I was awake for nearly 26 hours, although at best the early morning hours remain a hazy combination of sleep deprivation and the falling in and out of full consciousness. Let's get down to the meat of the entry...

So I headed off from Amsterdam Sloterdijk Station (the one nearest to my flat) at quarter passed 11. The route ended up being non-direct to my dismay. Disembarked in Centraal Station in Amsterdam and then had to board a train bound for Nijmegen. Nijmegen? Really? Was quite surprised to hear that. I thought Nijmegen was like 2 hours to the east? Yeah it is. But I would arrive in Den Bosch at 2 pm. So oh well. Headed out of the station and it was a nice nostalgic ride. Traced the exact route I took nearly a year ago when I last visited the east of Holland in June. Going back to Nijmegen was even more of a trip. My good friend Jacob lives there (when he's not in South Africa) which he currently is. But I had some good memories there in that town. And given the chance, I know I could find my way back to his flat as well as the bar in the center of the city, the one with the good beer selection. In any case It was a short reunion with the city and I was quickly boarding a sprinter for Den Bosch. I was there shortly thereafter. In any case once to Den Bosch I headed off into the city centre (a short walk from the train station). I was quite surprised. It was a very large city. A huge open-air market. Lots of shops and restaurants and it was a nice sunny day. So I settled on a nice restaurant with a decent view of passerbys, and had a mozzarella pesto and tomato sandwich, with a nice Duvel to wash it down. Afterwards I relaxed in the sun before heading off to the Afterhours.fm meet-up I would be going to before the show.

It was easy enough to find. Once there I was welcomed with a beer and a chair and some good conversation with other members on the forum. We had lots of beers and ended up talking with a bloke from Victoria, BC of all places. In addition to the canuck, we included two germans in our small group. We grabbed some food, then headed back to the meeting where they were just opening the bar. We had live music and more beers and then at around 8 pm we headed off for Brabanthallen (the venue for the show). Was massive. We got there and were inside pretty quickly. It was a great time. We were all jazzed to be there. We bought ASOT 500 tshirts. This show actually decided to put paper timetables available for everyone. So we headed off in search of good music. And let me tell you, with the lineup as massive as it was, it was not difficult to find. We started in the blue room for introductions and the first artist in the main room was Matt Zo. Never heard the guy before but it was pretty good. Next we scooted off to the green room to hear a bit of Ashley Wallbridge and finally went to the yellow room where we listened to one of my personal favorites: DJ Eco. Was a great set. Near the end he busted out the American flag :] gotta represent! After Eco we left and went back to the blue room to check out Markus Schulz. This is the second time this year that I've seen the guy (last time was in London at the ministry for his birthday show). In any case was a good set. He can throw down. After watching a bit of Markus I headed off in search of Orjan Nielsen who was playing in the orange room (looking back I guess I never even entered the red room, oh well!).


After checking out Orjan Nielsen for 30 minutes and listening to the live mix of one of my fav tracks from the guy: Mjuzik, I headed off to meet the canuck in the blue room to listen to Above and Beyond and eventually Armin. We lucked out. Really lucked out. First of all just happening to meet the canuck outside of the room (they stopped letting people in because apparently the room was too full). Eventually they let us all in and we plowed through the entrance gates and slowly worked our way up through the crowd until we were next to the sound engineers. There we stayed for the next 4 hours. We watched Above and Beyond (my first time seeing them) and their set was epic. And then directly after Above and Beyond it was Armin (they stopped letting people in after a certain hour I later found out). So we were lucky. Even though we were seemingly miles away from the decks, we still had a line of sight to see Armin and it was a great time. Amazing really, I mean in the electronic music world this is the top. There is no one bigger than Armin. This is the biggest stage in the world. And the laser shows were incredible. This is what I had hoped Trance Energy would have been like. Fireworks, flames, smoke, and a billion laser machines worked through the night and I was in awe the whole time. Unfortunately no pics (my canon 450d doesn't really fit in my pocket). So I'm hoping the canuck adds me on facebook and I can steal his photos. Either way the night was incredible. Was the electronic music experience I was hoping for here in Europe. But as with Energy, I ran out of funds (I didn't plan to spend 30 euros on a tshirt) and the downside to that was that my drink funds ran out far too early. I had a redbull at 130 2ish but that wasnt enough to keep my motor running. Really sucks, but whaddya gonna do? After Armin was through I hung out for a bit and listened to Gareth Emery. Wish I could have stayed to see the other amazing acts out there, but oh well, I was beat. My feet were killing me and I had no energy. I said peace to the canuck and headed off for the train station with the hope that by 7 or so I would be in my bed sleeping. Didn't end up going that way.

I walked to the train station and asked around a bit, come to find out, the last train left just after 4 am. The next one: 7:57. Fml. I fairly laughed as the notion of sitting around at the train station for 3 hours descended upon me. I bought some snacks and a bottle of water and grabbed a seat in one of the waiting rooms. Eventually I was joined by a few others and then 20 others. I sat there trying to relax and rest and my eyes. Unfortunately the benches in the train station waiting room are not all that luxurious. Nor was it all that warm. I heard it was supposed to be 5 celcius that night. I fell in and out of consciousness. I think I may have slept for close to an hour somewhere in between 5 am and 7. In any case I came to a little after 7 and just happened to be glancing outside when I saw one of the german blokes. Initially I just sat there, but then questioned why I was just sitting there freezing my ass off. Might as well have a chat. So I got up and chased him down and we chatted about our experiences for a bit before we headed our separate ways.

Everyone was waiting by the train for them to open the doors. They didn't do so until 7:55. Dicks. That first train was so packed there was no room for anything else and it was 30 minutes or so to Nijmegen; another enjoyable experience. The fool next to me kept falling asleep on my shoulder. Upon arrival everyone exploded out of the doors like a pack of wild animals to catch the next train out. Silly silly. I am experienced. A truly seasoned traveller. And why run to jump onto an already packed train when another one will leave soon afterwards? So I asked someone and checked the screens and it turns out that there was one leaving in less than 15 minutes. Perfect. So I grabbed some breakfast, hung out in the early morning sunlight in the Nijmegen Station and waited for the train. Unfortunately once on the train arrived, I wasn't able to find a nice seat. I didn't really care. I sat on the steps and relaxed. Dozed a bit. And by 1030 am we were in Schipol. 11 am I was just arriving back to my flat. Had a sandwich and passed out at noon. Didn't wake up til 7 pm and now here we are, midnight. Woot. Maybe I feel a bit tired. Idk. In any case, just one more crazy european travel adventure. Good times. Anyway I'm done writing. Hope I didn't lose you along the way. Byebye for now.


Zach