Friday, April 29, 2011

One Photo


The Old House, Ospedale, basking in the light of another famous Citta di Castello sunset

Thursday, April 28, 2011

It would seem...

That there is never ever (nor will there ever) be enough time in one day to do and accomplish all that needs to be done. Or perhaps I simply need to portion my time more efficiently. Today saw me working the yard solo. Intermittent sun showers and blockages by large masses of sinister looking gray clouds; I saw and felt the rain momentarily, but it really was just momentarily. I worked beneath the olive trees again today. My job is to clear weeds, break up the soil, and integrate manure pellets into the soil. My goal is 4 trees a day, takes about 20 mins per tree and I think there are 30 trees? That's what Richard tells me. I also cleaned up some rusted table frames, and moved all the chairs back down to the ground floor from the 1st floor.

I'm terribly sorry for the lack of updates. I've been meaning to write about my experiences over this first week, but time is always short. I haven't gotten out to do much exploring of the area, but tomorrow we are going into the old part of Citta di Castello to the market. And this weekend, when I won't have to work in the yard, I want to go and explore nearby Monte Santa Maria Tiberina. I'll be sure and take lots of photos tomorrow and this weekend. In any case, that's the whole of the update for now. Sorry It's a bit short...ttfn!

Zach




"Another Day On the Terrace"

Sunday, April 24, 2011

First Day In Italy

I am sitting in my bedroom here after my first full day in Italy. After a hair raising day yesterday spent riding buses, planes, and trains for nearly 14 hours, I arrived by car around 2 am, up a winding road to the house that will be my home for the next month or so. This morning I was woken up around 930 by a minor earthquake (a bit crazy) and then a little bit later at 11 am to the sound of church bells in the distance. Like a child on christmas morning I jumped out of bed, opened the windows and the shutter, to an amazing view overlooking tree covered hills and a castle perched on a sun drenched mountain. Sounds idyllic, but this is Italy after all ;] I opened the other window overlooking the large patio and garden and the sounds of chirping birds and buzzing bees quickly filled my room. This was to set the tone for the rest of the day. I showered and headed downstairs to have a quick breakfast and have a chat with Richard (my host). We had a lunch date with his neighbor and good friend, Andrea at 130. That quickly came and five minutes after 1 saw us driving down the dirt road to her house.

We came bearing gifts; a bottle of wine, and a freshly dug up sage plant. Andrea's home is straight out of some sort of travel magazine, or storybook. It has purple and white Wisteria growing up the side of the small brick home, and the roof looks ancient and is composed of various colored Terracotta tiles. She had also transformed an old barn into an art studio (she's a painter, and a very good one at that. You will definitely meet her Caro :] ). I imagine her view is quite inspiring.

Upon entering the home I realize how cozy and warm it feels. A nice fireplace. The small living area smelled of smoke. The exposed wooden beams and stone ceiling is quite amazing. We took a walk around the grounds and I was told that the fig tree in the front yard may have been planted when the home was first built 300 or 400 years ago. We were offered Prosecco and crostini's with Guanciale (so delicious). The rest of the guests arrived: a former Belgian Diplomat and his wife. They looked distinguished. The gentleman with a dark green corderoy suit, and a knitted crimson colored tie. A tuft of thinned gray hair sat atop his head and he wore a large pair of glasses. After Prosecco and Guanciale we moved to the dining room where we were served blanched asparagus with balsamic and olive oil. We had lots of great local Umbrian wine. The conversation flowed, as did the wine. Just listening to all of these people talk and conversate was amazing. They had lived such amazing lives. The former Belgian diplomat (Thierry) had been posted in various locations throughout his career. Locations included: Cambodia, London, Poland, and Moscow (please note this was in the 70's and 80's) and provided a front row seat for the collapse of the Soviet Union. The conversation was extremely stimulating. The next course was potato salad with fresh parsley, capers, and rosemary, carrots with fresh cumin, and a Pork Roast with fennel and other various spices. All was incredibly delicious. We had more wine and after I was quite full, the dessert made it's appearance (I'll have to remember to pace myself next time). It was an incredible chocolate mousse (made with Belgian chocolate of course) with chunks of quickly dissipating meringue. I had two servings. We had some Grappa, then some almond cookies, some chocolate, and then small cups of extremely rich and dark coffee. The food kept coming, but finally after a little bit more wine it was over and all that was left was the never uninteresting conversation. We made a trip up the hill to see Andrea's studio. We viewed palettes crusted over with paints, vases full of brushes, various sized canvases adorning the small area; different works, portraits, landscapes. It was amazing (she will have an exhibition in Paris soon). Afterwards another stroll around the grounds to look at the various plants and flowers; some Lilacs perhaps? This would be the kind of place I would like to live (perhaps someday ;] ) After saying goodbye to Thierry and his wife we helped to fix Andrea's clock, had a bit more Prosecco, and headed back up the road to Richard's house. What a time of day it was.

Finally we strolled the grounds here at his home, and discussed his plans for it. I am eager to roll up my sleeves and get to work. It should be great and there is definitely a lot to do. Tomorrow we'll host a dinner with lots of his close friends, hopefully do a bit of work in the morning, and enjoy another amazing selection of freshly prepared local food. Not sure what time I will go to bed. We'll see. I think I'm really going to like it here. I'll post a photo a bit later on of the view I have out my window. Until, then, toodles! Ciao!

Zach

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Alkmaar and Surrounding Areas

So yesterday I went out exploring. My plan was to visit some tulip fields (it has been a goal of mine for the past few years) and I finally succeeded. Because I really wanted to photograph a field of tulips with a windmill, I did a bit of research beforehand and found about 3 places where this was possible. As it turns out one of them was not far from Alkmaar, and as that turns out, Alkmaar was only 35 minutes away by train. So the perfect plan was materializing: I would bring my bike and ride out to the tulip fields from Alkmaar (it was only about 11km). It was my first time traveling by train with my bike and it went off without a hitch.

Once in Alkmaar I picked up a map of the city and surrounding bike routes (there are hundreds upon hundred of bike routes all over Holland) and headed off in no particular direction. It took me a little while, but I finally got my bearings and was headed off towards Stompetoren and Schemerhorn in no time. Once outside the city, the scenery changes quite a bit (don't get me wrong, Alkmaar is a lovely city itself) and you quickly find yourself cycling in the shade of tall tree-lined side roads. Right off the bat you can see the colorful mosaic of tulip fields in the distance. The road out to Schemerhorn is dotted with a ton of molen (windmills). I'm quite certain I encountered at least 20 of them throughout my day-long excursion. The first one got me pretty excited and I had to stop and snap some photos. As I continued on I went where ever I wanted. If I saw tulip fields in the distance, then I would go there and check it out. I paused momentarily at the base of a windmill to each lunch. That was the first time I'd seen 3 windmills all clumped together (but it wouldn't be the last). I checked the map and there was a tulip icon just past Schemerhorn so I headed out that way and in no time I could see the colors ahead. It really is a bit odd; people don't seem to mind the taking of photos. I thought maybe I'd get yelled at for walking on the land, and in one instance I asked the farmer himself, and he seemed quite non-chalant about it, like he just expects it (I'm sure it happens with frequency). So that was nice. I didn't feel bad about walking out into a field to snap photos. Some fields are behind homes and those I didn't try to get into, but the ones right off the road are fair game. In some cases irrigation ditches prevented me from getting up close, but still made for some nice photos. The sun was out all day long and it was nice just riding along the quiet tree-lined roads taking photos at my own discretion. This is what I did for most of the day from 130 onward to 7 pm or so.


Around 3 pm, I took a look at my map and realized there was a small town marked on one of the routes. It was apparently a good place for lunch. So I headed out to Westbeemster and found the restaurant with ease. This town had 150 residents in 2007, and by the look of things, it hadn't done much growing. It definitely felt like a small town. I parked my bike out front (without locking it) and proceeded inside. I startled the bartender, he was singing karaoke (on the newly installed sound system I later found out). I guess they weren't open yet, but he offered me a seat and I sat down and had a couple half-pints of Amstel on the terrace. Now maybe I put too much faith in people already, but it's places like these that totally and completely restore my faith in humanity. I am always reminded of Louis Armstrong's - What A Wonderful World, I used to think that kind of life no longer existed anywhere, but I'll tell you, it actually does. Everyone in this small blip of a town waved, said hello, and knew each other on a first name basis. It was quite amazing actually. The english spoken was broken at best (and that's a real sign you're getting far away from the city). I paid the 4€ for the 2 half pints, thanked the bartender, and was on my way back towards Schemerhorn. The rest of the afternoon I spent cruising the country roads looking for tulips and windmills. By the time I was headed back towards Alkmaar the afternoon sun was diminishing and it was transitioning to the evening. It would be excellent for photos and was only getting better and better by the minute. I took an alternate route back to Alkmaar that would take me by 6 or so molen. Near Ursem there were 2 molen together, 1 sitting solo, and near Rustenburg I encountered the next clump of 3. My plan was to head to Alkmaar and have dinner before heading to the train station. I really could not have planned it out better.

It was primetime for relaxing by the canal as I entered the city. The streets were nearly deserted compared to when I cruised through earlier. I found a nice little restaurant and took a seat on the terrace. Het Gulden Vlies (The Golden Cup) and it had a lovely photo of the city taken in 1902; the restaurant sitting in the exact same place. I ordered a Duvel, a goat cheese salad, and a side of fries. Was amazing. I love Duvel :] Anyhow, after dinner I headed back to the train station. It was nearing 8 pm and I lucked out as the train for Sloterdijk was leaving in just 12 minutes. So needless to say it was a great day. I snapped close to 500 photos (which I will upload to this blog a bit later on). Hope you enjoy reading. Until next time, tot zo!

Zach

Have a look at these curious buggers ;]

Saturday, April 16, 2011

It has been confirmed...

It has in fact been confirmed. I just bought my plane ticket to Rome. From Amsterdam I am proceeding deeper into the confines of the European continent and will be traveling to Italy in just 7 days. Incredible really. It hasn't sunk in. Such a long-time dream to visit the country of Italy and now here it is, staring me down. In 7 days it is entirely possible that I will be sitting in the Umbrian hills as the night fades drinking a glass of wine on a nice little terrace. Here we go. Cheers. Let's dive right in.

Zach


photo by: Ricardo Silva

Friday, April 15, 2011

The Inside Scoop

So here we are now. This is the inside scoop. The freshest of the fresh news from my trip. Anyhow so here we go....

So my original plan as some of you may already know, was to stay here in Holland until the 30th of April. For two reasons really. One, Queens Day is on the 30th of April and Queens Day for those of you unfamiliar with it, is a citywide celebration of the Queen. The entire country gets decked out in their finest orange and parties in the streets and canals in boats and with lots of alcohol. Sounds pretty schweet to me. And the second reason: so I could photograph the tulips. Now that's two good reasons to stay put. But on the other hand, I recently gained full access (via purchase of a premier account) to Helpx.net. And with that access as well as a little help from Carolyn (photos and stories) I am now certain I will not remain here in Holland until the 30th. But what is Helpx.net? The answer, and as quoted directly from the site:

"HelpX is an online listing of host organic farms, non-organic farms, farmstays, homestays, ranches, lodges, B&Bs, backpackers hostels and even sailing boats who invite volunteer helpers to stay with them short-term in exchange for food and accommodation."

So there you have it. You pay $29 USD and you have 2 full years of access to the site. And what's more is that there are literally people all over the world. All over europe, the US, Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Africa. Take your pick. Create a profile. Contact some hosts. And get your ass to wherever you want to go. It really is that simple. Once there it is not just a kick back relax kind of holiday. You will be expected to work (similar hours in some cases to a full-time job). 5 or 6 days a week 4 to 6 hours a day. In exchange for your hard work you will be rewarded with lodging and food. Sounds pretty nifty. If you aren't paying for food or lodging think of the money you can save. In some cases the arrangements are quite temporary usually around 2 weeks is the minimum and I've seen up to a month or sometimes longer depending on the circumstances. It not only provides you with a truly unique experience and perspective on life in the particular region but it also provides you with a nice little work holiday. Work hard, sweat, get a little dirty, then kick back relax, have some good food and enjoy the serenity around you while learning about the culture from your hosts. Nothing better in my opinion. So the obvious next question is, where have I been looking? The answer: Italy.

Two major reasons for me looking into Italy. One: I know a bit of the language already. And two: I've always dreamed of travel to Italy (especially Tuscany). And so I am going to make it happen. I am going to Italy. Can I say it one more time? Do you mind? I'm going to Italy. Ok thanks. Moving along. I have been in contact with several hosts. Two of the most promising are based in Umbria (the region about an hour or so north by train from la Citta Eterna, Roma). Holy hell how amazing is that? One host family I've been talking to owns animals; cows, goats, chickens, ducks etc etc. They make preserves, cheese and own an olive orchard as well. The other host is an Englishman. He owns a home in Umbria and has been fixing it up over the past 15 years or so. He frequently travels between London and Umbria for business (he designs furniture) and is looking for someone to maintain the area (weeding, gardening, painting, etc etc). So bloody hell, which do I choose? That's the question. I've got an idea of which one I think. Both will most likely be longer term rather than shorter term and that's exactly what I am looking for. Longer term work. And I've even been guaranteed the possibility of a longer term arrangement should things work out well. So look at that. How incredibly amazing do either of those things sound? Yeah freaking awesome.

So when will I make my arrival to the lovely country of Italia? Well today is the 15th of April. I may be sitting in Umbria, drinking wine, walking down cobbled medieval streets beneath terracotta roofs and hills packed with tiny Italian cottages as early as Sunday the 24th of April. Quite soon. Means I'll fly out from Holland on the 23rd of April. So we'll see. I'm waiting for a phone call from Richard (the Englishman) in about 10 mins here and we'll have a chat and discuss things further. So here we go. Here is the next chapter. The Italian chapter. And who knows where I'll end up. More later. Hope you're all well. Talk soon.

Zach